Headlamp Restoration

How we restore a lens that has actually gone

1. Mask off

   Bumpers, paint and trim taped at the lens edge. Nothing else gets sanded.

2. Wet sand — 800 grit

   Lifts the oxidised top layer and any pitting. We work in straight lines, never circles.

3. 1500 grit

   Refines the surface. The lens turns dull cream after this stage — the haze is now lifted out, not coated over.

4. 3000 grit

   Final wet sand. The plastic underneath is fresh; the lens is ready to polish back to glass-like.

5. Polish

   Plastic polish with a foam pad on a dual-action polisher. Two passes, inspected under torch.

6. UV sealant

   A real, 2K UV sealant — not a clear lacquer in a rattle can. Cures to a hard, clear shell that takes UV exposure on your behalf.

Why "spray on top" jobs do not last

The cheap version of headlamp restoration spreads a polish over the haze and immediately tops it with a clear lacquer. The yellow comes back inside six months because the underlying oxidation never went anywhere — it just sat under a thin layer. Done properly, the haze is sanded off, not painted over. The UV sealant that goes on top is what stops it returning.

When to book

• Your car is five to ten years old and the lenses look cloudy in daylight.
• You are listing the car for sale — clear lenses change buyer perception more than anyone admits.
• You have a Puspakom inspection due and want the headlight beam pattern to read cleanly.
• You drive a lot at night and the throw on your high beams has dropped.

What we cannot fix

Cracks in the polycarbonate, fogged-up inner lenses (moisture inside the housing), broken adjuster motors. Those are repair-shop jobs, not detailer jobs. If we see anything like that during the walk-around, we tell you up front and skip the lens.